WHOSE DREAM
Following a Dream – whose? Pete’s, not mine.
At least that’s how it was to begin with.
Having been a Primary School teacher for over thirty years and involved in many aspects of school life, in addition to belonging to a large Bristol choir and local church, my life was very full. I had many acquaintances, some really good friends, a lovely sister and wonderful daughter, son and three year old grandson. Could I really leave all this behind and happily become a waterborne traveler?
Pete and I met over forty years ago when he was a Navigating Officer in the Merchant Navy. Once married, as I was unhappy about being left alone whilst Pete was at sea, he gave up the job he loved, and sought employment ashore. Maybe his dream of sailing to the Med one day, was born then, maybe not, I don’t know, but if so he has certainly waited very patiently to realize those dreams.
“Free Spirit”, our 60ft Narrow Boat
In 2001, we decided to rent out our bungalow and move onto “Free Spirit”, our sixty foot narrow boat which we had ordered as a steel shell and fitted out ourselves, making it what we felt was a superb home. Packing up and deciding what I could take aboard with us, was quite a task and there was no room for unnecessary clutter. Obviously many things could not go with us but were too precious or sentimental to discard, so these were placed safely “in store”.
After a hectic round of entertaining friends aboard, we said our farewells and set off to cruise the English canals, spending a wonderful two and a half years cruising most of the system. We frequently welcomed friends and family aboard in various locations throughout the country, celebrated the birth of our second grandson and enjoyed every day of our stress free lifestyle.
We Found Her, “Market Lady” a 32ft Vancouver
After three years, it obviously not being feasible to travel to the Med in a narrow boat, “Free Spirit” was sold as planned. At the end of 2003 and into early 2004, we spent a few months living in a caravan, until we found the boat for which we had been looking. Finally we found her, “Market Lady” a Vancouver 32 becoming the proud owners in March 2004.
St. Marys, Isles of Scilly
We decided that our first years cruising aboard her would be in British waters to familiarize ourselves with her, and discover what alterations we wished to make during the winter of 2004/2005. At this stage I really could not imagine ever sailing to the Med, I thought it was only other women with far more experience of sailing and more guts than I that made it – that far!
Braye Harbour, Alderney, The Channel Islands
The winter in Falmouth was great. Pete and I both took on temporary work, earning extra cash in order to finance the alterations and equipment we wanted.
Falmouth Winter Village
Yet by the time we were preparing to leave for the Med, I would happily have stayed in Falmouth, living aboard “Market Lady”, relishing the relative safety of this beautiful harbour. After visits to see our family, a very emotional time for me, we finally left Falmouth at midday on the 1st June 2005. I was very apprehensive, yet at the same time, excited. I knew that our boat was good and would always take care of us. Pete was so encouraging, caring and wonderful company, and I soon began to relax realizing that this was going to be an amazing adventure.
After a twenty four hour sail we arrived in Camaret, Northwest Brittany, in beautiful weather – almost too hot to even relax on deck. From here we sailed to St. Evette and then on to Benodet.
I had sailed this far before aboard “Wandering Star”, but from here onwards it was ‘unknown waters’ . We had initially intended to make various calls along the French coast until reaching Bordeaux, in order to make the Biscay crossing as short as possible. However I felt ready to move on. Knowing we had a good weather forecast, I suggested we leave Benodet and cross direct to the Spanish coast, a trip of just over three hundred miles.
For me this would be my longest passage so far, but, as we left Benodet, I knew we had made the right decision. It was 0700 on a wonderfully still morning as we headed out, next stop …… VIVERO, SPAIN
The Biscay crossing was great, a mix of sailing and motoring. We held two hour watches during the nights, my confidence growing with each passing hour. We were accompanied by dolphins for a couple of hours, but otherwise had the Bay to ourselves. As we approached Northern Spain the visibility was poor, preventing us from seeing the rugged mountainous coastline much before we entered the Ria. Our welcome was certainly loud – a terrific thunderstorm and cold strong westerly wind greeted us, so for about thirty minutes conditions were pretty unpleasant. As the squalls passed we found ourselves a comfortable anchorage not far from the town at the head of the Ria. We sent text messages to our family notifying them of our safe arrival, whilst sitting in the cockpit enjoying a celebration tot of gin and tonic . We felt on top of the world.
WE HAD MADE IT. I HAD CROSSED THE BAY OF BISCAY!
For me this was a real milestone. Whilst I know many people have made this trip before me, and many I’m sure will continue to do so, I never really believed I could …but I had!
The rest of our cruising in 2005 was superb. There were many ups and even a few downs but I never regretted leaving Falmouth. The Spanish Rias provided excellent sailing, lovely anchorages and spectacular scenery.
Corino, North Spain
There was just one passage, from Corino to Rio de Cedeira on the north west corner of Spain, that I endured rather than enjoyed. We left Corino on a fine sunny morning but soon encountered swell in excess of 2.5 metres with a very confused sea on the starboard quarter. “Market Lady’s” motion was extremely unpleasant. Foolishly I held on to anything I could, in so doing I trapped my hand in the main track – a very painful experience but with no lasting damage. The anchorage in Cedeira was however, a welcome sight.
La Coruna, North Spain
La Coruna we found to be a vibrant, bustling, interesting City which we loved, our time there a complete contrast to the peace and beauty of Aries, Camarinas, Muros and Islas de Cies. Finisterre was a word that conjured up within me anxiety and fear. I recall hearing so many maritime weather forecasts referring to bad weather around Cape Finisterre. I knew we had to “round the Cape” in order to reach Portugal, however, never since leaving Falmouth, had the seas been as calm. Again I was on a real high.
Rounding Finisterre
Bayona, the last of our Spanish ports was another real favourite, similar in many ways to La Coruna but on a much smaller scale. We enjoyed a magnificent sail up the River Tejo, into Lisbon, and a days sightseeing there before we headed south to Sines and then onwards to Lagos on the Algarve.
Lisbon
Cape St. Vincent
Years ago on a package holiday we had visited Cape St Vincent. Never in my wildest dreams could I have imagined back then, sailing round the Cape in our own boat. Yet this was another cape we rounded in perfect conditions, sailing in a force 4 westerly wind with brilliant sunshine and dolphins for company.
Karen and Owen
The Algarve, our destination for 2005 represented an amazing achievement for me. Spurred along by Pete’s enthusiasm and encouragement I had ventured further in our own boat than I had ever thought possible. We visited Lagos, Portimao, Albufeira and Villamoura before settling in Faro Lagoon to welcome aboard our family, where we enjoyed snorkelling, swimming, paddling, shell collecting and sand castle building with our Grandchildren. Friends who had visited in Falmouth before we left, again visited in Faro.
John and Matthew
Throughout the whole trip, by the wonders of modern communications, we had kept in constant touch with all those folk I was so concerned about leaving behind. They were very much with me during the whole adventure.
As in October, we settled “Market Lady” in a Faro boatyard for the winter, I couldn’t help but reflect on the year that had past.
FOLLOWING A DREAM I THOUGHT ……… WHOSE DREAM?
OUR DREAM!
Margaret Wheeldon
